"Luz, even when it pushes its boundaries, rarely oversteps them. Their menu darts among Latin American cuisines and between old-school staples and nuevo Latino flourishes appetizers and ceviches, the best of which is coco tuna, raw tuna tossed with coconut milk enlivened with lemongrass, ginger and jalapeño. Pinchos de res, grilled cubes of tenderloin served with a mojo and a chimichurri, is good eating as well. The vatapa, a coconut-milk-based stew loaded with shellfish and vegetables, is as good an $11 seafood soup as one could hope for.