When it comes to sushi restaurants in Portland, it’s hard to pick favorites. This is a sushi town. In countless meals, I have yet to encounter any real missteps in the skillfully cut and garnished seafood and vegetables. And so was the case on a recent night at Sapporo. Having eaten at Sapporo many times, I am always struck by the hospitality. A conscientious host or hostess is always there at a small desk at the entry to the dark, busy sushi bar, where knife-wielding masters work solemnly behind glass cases, turning seafood into sculpture. On this occasion, we were led straight through this room and into the newer dining area, which was packed on that rainy night. The airy dining room is a haven of mellow lighting, gentle beiges and other pale, neutral tones, translucent paper screens and attractive wooden furniture. Even when it’s very busy, this dining room sets a tone of calm and tranquility. The windows overlook a small dining patio. An automated piano stands near the door to the sushi bar, emitting phantom background music.