Lalibela, which opened in 1999, serves a collection of home-cooked Ethiopian dishes, many reminiscent in spicing and presentation to Indian curries. Its current chef-owner, Shilmat Tessema, took over the kitchen a little over a year ago. She retained the brief menu as she found it, preparing the dishes as she learned in Ethiopia, and occasionally compromising authenticity for her American audience, replacing bone-in with boneless chicken, for example. Vegetables and legumes are prominent in the cuisine, and Lalibela offers both meat and vegetarian dishes.The centerpiece of an Ethiopian meal is injera, a flatbread that looks like a large, thin, spongy crepe. Traditionally made with ground teff (a grain native to Ethiopia) and served at room temperature, injera has a fermented taste that grows on you, even if its charms are not immediately apparent. In a phone conversation, Ms. Tessema told me that in New Haven she has had to adapt her injera recipe, by adding a percentage of wheat flour, to get the right texture.